The Bay Area’s 50 Most Essential New Dishes

9. KALBI LOCO MOCO
’Aina, Dogpatch
900 22nd St. (near Minnesota St.), 415-814-3815
’Aina calls itself a “modern Hawaiian eatery,” but it could just as easily be described as a cure for the common brunch. While you’ll find doughnuts, eggs, and French toast at the sunny Dogpatch restaurant that chef-owner Jordan Keao opened in April, there’s nothing rote about them: The French toast is made with taro Portuguese bread, and the eggs—well, the best way to eat them is in the kalbi loco moco. In Keao’s version of the Hawaiian staple, they sit sunny-side up on a heap of braised short rib and short-grain rice. Throw in some furikake, pea tendrils, heart of palm pico de gallo, and some hon-shimeji mushroom jus, and you have yourself a brunch to remember. $19